Guillaume Michel makes all his wines in the same way - steel-fermented using indigenous yeast - in order to bring terroir differences to the fore. Compared to the Laroche Chablis, this will seem a little neutral and ungiving at first glance, but persist and you'll find a dense, sappy wine quivering with understated energy, resonant acidity and stony classicism. -Andrew Jefford #CHABLISFEATURE