Wonderful visit with Peter Schell at Spinifex, whose ‘Papillon’ Cinsault/Grenache is in the store. He pioneered the movement away from big, extracted wines in Barossa starting around 20 years ago. Near the end we realized we were running out of time, so we jumped into a jeep and sped through his vineyards, which in that part of Barossa more closely resemble a beach than most vineyards you’re used to. The sand, though, is the secret to the old vines since most root pests can’t survive in sandy soils. The tour ended just across the street in what were immediately apparent as very, very old vines, twisted and scraggly but still full of bright green leaves despite having been harvested weeks prior. These were the oldest Grenache vines in the world, visibly thriving despite the heat wave. Their deep roots and long “memory” allowed them to adapt and not even flinch when younger vines struggled in adversity.  
 

Ashton Hills Wines, at one of the highest points of the Adelaide Hills, makes wine in what generously can be called corrugated metal sheds. The wines are beautiful and elegant, so another example of humble facilities creating outstanding things.  
 

In McLaren Vale, Paxton and their organic and biodynamic vineyards within view of the Gulf of St Vincent was a lovely visit with “Bostralian” Brian Lamb (he’s a Bostonian who married an Australian). 
 

A visit to SC Pannell uncovered delicious Grenache and the Koomilya ‘DC’ Block Shiraz, from a single sliver of 49-year-old vines in a quiet corner of McLaren Vale. It destroys all preconceptions of that Shiraz can be, and it’s on its way to the store sometime in August.