I've been exploring different wines from around the world for longer than I care to admit. So it's a pleasant surprise when I discover a wine from a hitherto unfamiliar region. I've had plenty of wines from Sicily-I've even visited wineries on the Italian island-and I've enjoyed many a bottle of full-bodied Nero d'Avola. That's why the red wines from the slopes of Mount Etna come as such a revelation. Relatively light-bodied, these wines rely more on finesse than force for their appeal. Over the last 20 years, Tenuta delle Terre Nere has been at the forefront of Sicilian wineries that are bringing much-deserved attention to the extraordinary potential of Etna wines. Their Etna Rosso, made mostly from Nerello Mascalese grapes grown in volcanic soil at more than 2,000 feet above sea level on Etna's north flank, is an elegantly seductive wine with beautiful berry flavors that keep luring you back in for another sip. Anyone who's a fan of the subtle charms of Burgundian Pinot Noir would be well-advised to give this Etna Rosso a try. It's a superb accompaniment to grilled meat and fish, but for a sensational Sicilian-style pairing, pour it with pasta alla Norma. - David Mahoney