Description
Cropped at a paltry 20 hectoliters per hectare, the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir unfurls in the glass with aromas of musky peach, orange oil and clear honey, mingled with hints of iodine and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's layered and tightly wound, with racy acids and striking concentration. This will really repay extended bottle age. I left my tasting with Didier Séguier wondering if the 2019s might be the best vintage I've ever tasted at Domaine William Fèvre. At this address, the vintage's low yields have translated to wines of remarkable concentration, but Séguier has also achieved levels of cut and tension that are rare in contemporary Chablis. My only reservation (if one can call it that) is that these are serious, structured wines that are tightly wound and introverted after their recent bottling, a tendency no doubt amplified by their DIAM closures; therefore, many are surely destined to be drunk too young. But readers who purchase Fèvre's top 2019s and forget them for more than a decade are going to be richly rewarded, of that I'm confident. Aside from the quality of the 2019 vintage, the other big news here is that Fèvre is converting to organic farming, an ambitious and admirable project for this 78-hectare domaine. -William Kelly, Wine Advocate #CHABLISFEATURE