Godello is an ancient grape variety native to the northwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula, likely in the area in some form since Roman times. The problem with older families of vines, however, is that they can become very sensitive to disease pressure. In fact, Godello was nearly declared extinct in the 1970s. Several enthusiastic supporters refused to let this happen, and while it's still a distant second to the more popular Albariño, it's safe and sound with the producers who champion it. One of these supporters is Bodegas Emilio Moro, one of the preeminent wineries of Ribera del Duero and neighboring Bierzo, where this wine is grown. It's a fresh, mineral-driven wine with a slightly fuller body that will remind you of the unoaked Chardonnays of France's Maconnais, but for much less than most of those wines. Notes of quince, apricot, youthful white flowers, and fresh citrus make this very food-friendly and, with its slightly fuller body, a great white for the cooler months. - Peter Plaehn, Wine Buyer