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Chablis Feature

Chablis Feature

Posted on Aug 5th 2024

Written by
Peter Plaehn, Wine Buyer

Hi, my name is Peter, and I have a Chardonnay problem. 

 

It’s mostly a mineral-driven, barely-to-no-oak Chardonnay problem, but I’m a fan of a well-made bottle from just about anywhere. This doesn’t extend to Champagne, however, where I prefer Pinot Noir and Meunier to Chardonnay. But that’s a subject for another time. 

 

The prices of Chardonnay from Burgundy have been on the rise and the fifteen-year stretch of horrific vintages hasn’t helped. So, when the store is offered any of it at all, I put a lot of thought into not if, but how much we should get because there’s no guarantee we’ll get a similar amount next year. A bottle in the hand, so to speak. I leaned a bit heavier in Chablis rather than other parts of Burgundy because the price-to-quality value is better and most of the top wines live under $150, instead of starting there like in the Cote de Beaune. Chablis was the “affordable” option, so I bought a lot. Too much, really. 

 

Then 2024 happened. In early May, catastrophic hail and rain ravaged the vineyards in Chablis. It’s extremely likely we won’t see much, if any, wine from the vintage. We can probably kiss the affordable part of Chablis goodbye as we wait to see how much of the 2023 vintage is released and how much is held for sale to stretch cash until the 2025 crop is in the books. And let’s not forget how tiny the 2021 crop was, so it’s not like there’s a lot of extra wine lying about. 

 

After all that, seems like I planned ahead! Not really, but I’m trying to cheer myself up in the face of losing an entire vintage of Chablis. If you’re having anxiety attacks over this (a bougie first-world problem, I know) I thought I’d open the books on our inventory to help comfort you. Before someone asks, no – I haven’t seen Dauvissat or Raveneau allocations yet (they’re sort of the Pappy Van Winkle of Chablis…but Pappy is much cheaper). 


Some highlights: 

 

  • No Dauvissat, but Laurent Tribut is his cousin, and the wines are fair approximations that don’t break the bank nearly as badly. 

  • If you want drier than dry and minimal enamel left on your teeth, the wines from Alice et Olivier deMoor are as close to drinking a laser beam as I think you can get. 

  • The wines of Paul Nicolle are some of my absolute favorites for the price; his Premier Cru wines are the same price as some basic Chablis. The Fourneaux is great quality for under $50. 

  • New to Minnesota, the wines of Seguinot-Bordet are stunning. The Fourchaume Premier Cru comes entirely from the “L’Homme Mort” portion of the vineyard, where the most limestone is. Fun trivia: Not only is L’Homme Mort the northernmost Premier Cru in Chablis, it also means either “The Dead Man” or L’Orme Mort/The Dead Elm. Given the presence of an old cemetery and plenty of trees nearby, either could be true. 

  • I’ve spread the representation of the Premier Crus across both the north and south banks of the river Seine, from the famous Montée de Tonnere (“Mountain of Thunder”) and Mont de Milieu adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard to the coveted slopes of Vaillons, Montmains and Butteaux on the southern side. 

  • As an alternative to French, I’m loving the Chardonnay from Ettore Germano (Piedmont), Shaw+Smith’s M3 (Adelaide Hills) and the wines of Martin Woods (Willamette) and Ceritas (Sonoma). 


Chablis 

Brigitte Cerveau 2021 

Billaud-Simon 2021 

Château Béru ‘Terroirs de Béru’ 2021 

Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2020 

Alice et Olivier deMoorL’ Humeur du Temps’ 2021 

Alice et Olivier deMoorCoteau de Rosette 2020 

Domaine Louis Michel 2021 

Domaine Louis Michel 2022 

Domaine Seguinot-Bordet 2022 

Domaine Laurent Tribut 2019 

Domaine Laurent Tribut 2021 

Domaine Laurent Tribut 2022 

 

Chablis Premier Cru 

Billaud-Simon ‘Vaillons’ 2021 

Domaine Louis Moreau ‘Vaillons’ 2021 

Daniel-Etienne Defaix ‘Côte de Léchet’ 2010 

Domaine Laurent Tribut ‘Côte de Léchet’ 2022 

Alice et Olivier deMoor ‘Mont de Mileu’ 2020 

Domaine Louis Michel ‘Butteaux’ 2021 

Domaine Louis Michel ‘Montmains’ 2022 

Domaine Paul Nicolle ‘Fourneaux’ 2022 

Domaine Seguinot-Bordet ‘Fourchaume’ 2022 

Domaine William Fevre ‘Montée de Tonnere’ 2021 

 

Chablis Grand Cru 

Domaine William Fevre ‘Vaudésir’ 2019 

Domaine GautheronBougros’ 2020 

Domaine Louis Moreau ‘Valmur’ 2020 

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