"The 1998 Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire emerges from the glass with an exotic array of intensely perfumed, candied fruit. The wine possesses gorgeous textural richness in a deep, layered expression of Pinot Noir. The mousse remains refined and very elegant all the way through to the deeply satisfying, resonating finish... The Billecart-Salmon house style is defined by class, elegance, and a sublime freshness to the wines. Long fermentations at cold temperatures with no malolactic fermentation are the rule at this small, family-owned property in Mareuil-sur-Ay. 95 points." -Wine Advocate