The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett opens with substantial depth and a brilliant bouquet of wet slate. The fruit is intense but not dominating, thanks to the flintiness and savoriness of the Himmelreich terroir. On the palate, this is a mouth-filling, dense and complex Kabinett with ripe, elegant and juicy fruit intertwined with very fine phenols and an ethereal slate thread that gives this Kabinett an enormous length and animation. This will be a superb gastronomic wine after a decade of bottle age, although the 2023 already drinks beautifully today. - WA 96pts