For wine drinkers of a certain age, Soave suffers from unfortunate associations with cheesy commercials for Soave Bolla in the 1970s and the equally cheesy 1990 song “Rico Suave.” But just one taste of a well-made Soave Classico should go a long way toward convincing skeptics that this can be a white wine worthy of serious attention. Suavia’s Tessari family has been growing grapes in this region between Verona and Vicenza in northeast Italy since the 19th century, though it wasn’t until 1982 that they started their own winery. Today, Suavia is run by three Tessari sisters—Meri, Valentina, and Alessandra—who make their Soave Classico entirely from organic Garagnega grapes. Brilliant gold in color, this wine’s fresh, fruity flavors run the gamut from lemon to pear to honeydew melon. It’s an ideal summer sipper that works well on its own as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to white meat or fish dishes. 120760