Staff Selections • Dale Johonson

Seasonal Pick 2022:

2020 Nikolaihof Gruner Veltliner ‘Hefeabzug’

(Wachau, Austria)

There are several things to love about wine: the flavor and aroma, where it’s from, the price, who made it, and the winemaking process (just to name a few). Sometimes you come across one that has it all. Nikolaihof as a producer is one of the earliest adapters of biodynamic winemaking and lays claim to one of the earliest delineated vineyards, even prior to Roman rule. The Saahs family, who have been making Nikolaihof since 1894, like to take things slow and let the wines develop into their full potential with slower fermentation and aging. Don’t let vintages fool you on their bottles; they’ve held onto some wines longer than legendary Rioja producers before releasing into the market. The Hefeabzug may be young by the Saahs family standards, but it over delivers. This lovely Grüner Veltliner is bursting with candied citrus peel, tropical fruit, bitter greens, and a touch of chalkiness and lager. Nikolaihof’s Hefeabzug is certainly not lacking in character. Pairing wise, it passes a gauntlet that is more difficult than it seems: asparagus. This wine will hold up against a wide array of vegetables, white meats, lean fish, and cheeses. The Nikolaihof Hefeabzug 2019er is a home run. Prost!



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